When you replace the trans it will just mate right up for you.

Release the bolt but do not remove it from the bolt hole nor should you remove the tools. Partially extract all six of the subframe bolts (Maybe one or so inches on the front and 3-4 inches on the rear will do.) Then drop the jacks until the front of the subframe hangs on the front bolts and the rear drops down to the rear bolts to give you a straight shot with a 36' extension at the 17mm bolts on the rear top of the housing.Īs to the to starter bolt, using a lot of light to help you spot it, just run a 17mm socket mounted on a universal joint down between the 3rd and 4th runners of the intake manifold and using a bent piece of coat hanger, slide the socket onto the bolt head. Using two jacks and some wood as a cushion on the jack saddle, jack the rear of the front subframe on each side until it is well supported. Alternatively, you can get dry brake fittings to run in line with the release bearing feed line so you can remove the gearbox without having to bleed the clutch when you reinstall-a nice touch for a race car in which quick gearbox changes trackside are a necessity.The motor needs to be tilted to the rear. I still ran the feed line through the side, however, looking at it now, if it’s difficult to bleed, I will simply run the line through the new hole in the casing and directly to the master cylinder. For the feed line I used a Chase Bays stainless braided hose to improve clutch pedal feel.

Consequently I took the opportunity to drill the gearbox casing while it was off the car and route the bleed line straight up and in to the engine bay for easy access and to prevent air from being trapped in the line. Removing the locating tabs on the Competition Clutch release bearing and machining a ring to locate the hydraulic release bearing to the factory machined inner diameter did the trick to ensure the bearing assembly is dead center to the input shaft.įinally, while it’s possible to route the release bearing hydraulic feed line and bleed line through the factory side port in the casing, it creates a high point in the lines that can make bleeding the air out of the system difficult. The inner bore is, though, and it’s what the original clutch tube centered on. However, this is not a machined surface, and one of the tabs interfered with part of the casting.

Our hydraulic release bearing came with locating tabs designed to center the bearing assembly on the outer diameter of a casting feature in the box. Use a feeler gauge under the pressure plate edges to make sure it is fully seated against the flywheel. Be especially careful that the edges of the pressure plate don’t hang up on the flywheel. Next, when fitting the pressure plate, be sure to very carefully tighten the hardware in a cross pattern to achieve even clamp load. A dial gauge was then used to check the radial runout on the flywheel, which was excellent at less than 0.001 inch. I always recommend using new hardware for something as critical as a flywheel. I used all-new OEM Honda hardware with red Loctite torqued to factory spec to secure the flywheel. First, make sure to fully clean all friction surfaces, including the flywheel, with a high-quality brake cleaner I like the Wurth stuff because it has no chlorine in it. During installation we found a few things that may make your life easier if trying to fit a Competition Clutch twin disc to your S2000.

Honda s2000 clutch removal